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Monday, September 4, 2017

Broker's Labor


Labor Day used to mean margaritas for me. And indeed I had my fill at Beverly's last night.

The reason I have long associated Labor Day with margaritas is because it's around the first day of the late summer that I can safely harvest a juicy lime from the backyard dwarf Bearss. Many more will come to full fruition between now and Easter, but the first are ripe for clipping now.

But these days, with the cabana undergoing a slow hand remodel, I'm more content with a gimlet–a kind of washed-out classic, tart and barely sweet, such a wonder for Chinese restaurants in the '30's. Broker's is a slightly hot (94 proof, and tastes it), low juniper London dry gin, a fine complement to the first lime of the season. It's not an herb bomb either. Pretty orange bitters make for an inviting watercolor of a drink, and a lime wheel or slice brings more vividness to the wisp of carnation in the color. Remember to give the shaker a shake for every year of age – that way, you can grow old together, handling the heat with just a little more bruised ice each passing year.

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